Mongolian herders whose cashmere production is
prey to price fluctuations, often attributed to manipulation by Chinese
traders, may now fall under closer scrutiny from end-users, cashmere producers
in the West, says a report in The Financial Times. “There is too little
knowledge about the impact of cashmere production,” says the spokesman of a
growing group of companies working to raise awareness of the issues surrounding
its production, and the development could create fresh hardship for herders
already hemmed in by the dzud. The merchandise standards manager of a British
retails group says, “There has to be trust but suppliers who understand our
expectations on sourcing also understand that if that trust is broken, they
risk their long-term trading relationship.”

Strong, light, warm to wear, and deliciously soft,
cashmere is wonderfully luxurious but, with clothing production falling under
increasing environmental scrutiny, questions are now being asked about cashmere
production. Woven from the soft hair of goats, cashmere is both natural and
long-lasting but its production has raised concerns over desertification,
caused by over-grazed grasslands, and the possible cruelty to goats kept in
confined spaces. Such worries have prompted some cashmere manufacturers to
investigate their supply chains more thoroughly.

Even though “ethical” has become an increasingly valuable
selling point, for most manufacturers, the cashmere supply chain is so
complicated that they have little chance to fully audit supply in order to make
claims with assurance. But attitudes at the luxury end are slowly changing.

As are attitudes beyond the fashion industry. China
provides a government subsidy to farmers who can demonstrate good land
management. Organizations such as Sustainable Agriculture Research and
Education have funded projects to develop improved combing techniques. These
techniques discourage the use of speedy shearing, a process that can leave
goats with little or no coat for warmth. The United States Agency for
International Development has launched a campaign to teach combing to some
170,000 Afghani goatherds, which will boost rural incomes from herds more
typically farmed for meat, milk or leather. The aim is to make cashmere as
long-lasting, and sustainable, as possible.